Off-roadin' in South America

Our big plan for Monday was to go on a 4X4 Tour. Now these aren't 4-wheelers, but big 4x4 range rover type vehicles. At about 9 on Monday our driver picked us along with two other people from our hostel. We were seated one passenger in the front seat, 3 in the middle seat, and 4 sitting in the back 2 and 2 facing inward with our knees crashing together. :)

From the hostel we headed out of town and towards the mountains... well I guess you head towards the mountains from every direction in Ushuaia, but anyway... we headed out of town. We drove for about 45 min or so on the highways getting beautiful views of the mountains, although those of us in the back did have to duck down a bit to see them.


One interesting thing we saw was a ski resort where the ski lift and the ski slope went over the highway. They built a special bridge so the skiers could just keep going. Although there were lots of fences and stuff to keep people from skiing into the highway, I still think it would make me really nervous. Of course, I'm not what you would call graceful on skis.

We then stopped at Paso Girabaldi. The top of the pass over that part of the Andes. We could really tell we had increased altitude because we got out and there was snow. This pass over looks a big lake, Lago Escondido. This is also the only place that you can cross the Andes and still be in Argentina. (Every other pass that starts in Argentina goes.)

Well, after 45 min or so we turned onto a dirt road (which doesn't mean its a minor road... many, many road in Tierre del Fuego are dirt) and headed toward Lago Fagnano. Along the way our driver pointed out some of the features of the area. For example, a moss called "old man's beard" grows there. Apparently it only grows where the air is really clear. We were informed of this several times. Also the soil isn't very deep (8 inches), so the trees blow over easily, but when they do, because it is so cold there, they tend to take a long time to decay. Our driver said the trees can live to be about 500 years old (if they don't get blown over) but they take 400 years to decay. (I have no idea if that is actually true or not.)

When we reached Lago Fagnano,which is huge, we drove along side it or in it and the ride became much more exciting, esp. for those of us in the back. By this time we had caught up to the other two 4X4's in our caravan... this is when I realized we were a caravan. We drove through deep mud, and watched the driver in front of us drive his 4X4 sideways. Our driver did it too... but its actually not as impressive when you are in the vehicle.

One of the strangest moments was when we were driving on a deeply rutted path very slowly and a guy from the 4X4 in front of us got out. He came back and walked a long beside our driver talking to him. Then climbed up on the hood and rode until our driver caught up to the other vehicle. When he did, the man got off and climbed back into the other vehicle... IN THE DRIVERS SEAT!!! Yup, the ruts were so deep that he could just let the ruts steer the vehicle.


After awhile of splashing through the water and going up and over hills and through mud puddles and generally being jostled a lot, we stopped at a beautiful spot along the lake. We got out to stretch our legs, settle our stomachs, and take pictures. The drivers also told us that if we needed to go to the bathroom that this was a good time because it would be another 20 - 30 minutes until the cabin where we were eating lunch. They also told us that the forest was our bathroom. Rosalinda and Amber couldn't wait. I thought surely he was kidding and decided to wait for the cabin we were going to. Just for the record he wasn't. All the girls (and I guess guys too) got to take solitary walks in the forest. I think this is clearly a man's idea.


Anyway, we hopped back in the vehicles and drove by and through the lake some more.

After more excitement, we arrived at a strip between the big lake and another one we were excited to learn was named Bombilla (that's the straw you drink mate through). From there we got out and walked the last half mile or so while the drivers went on and started on lunch. Our group was the slowest as we stopped to take many, many, many pictures.

After taking a bajillion pictures we arrived at the cabin. The drivers had set out snacks for us while we were waiting for them to get done grilling. After the appetizers, we had choripan which is a sausage, more like a bratwurst than anything else, on bread. This was followed by steak. Many of you know that I don't generally like steak. BUT OH MY GOODNESS this was by far the best steak I've ever had. It was oh so good.

We took a few more picture of views from the cabin, then it was time to head home again.

This time, I took someone's offer of a trade and moved up to the middle seat. Of course the way home was also an exciting ride through mud and water. When we got back to the hostel, while we enjoyed the ride we were grateful to be still again. It was another great day in Ushuaia.